Lumache with Aged Duck Ragu

How did the word “interesting” become irrevocably altered from a compliment to an insult? Nowadays when you hear someone describing a restaurant or a meal as “interesting”, the automatic assumption is that it was a completely un-repeatable experience filled with questionable choices. Even more perplexing and inconvenient is that the opposite of interesting (uninteresting) enjoys the same flavor of insult as well! I therefore feel it absurdly necessary to disclaim right here and now that the concept behind Chris Jaeckle’s charming two-story, Greenwich Village Venetian bistro All’Onda is brilliantly interesting – in the original sense of the word.

Given his solid record at being able to deliver on traditional, high-end Italian during this tenure at Michael White’s Altamarea group, Jaeckle has produced his own gimmick-free kitchen that catapults Italian cooking into the 21^st century while bringing many familiar Japanese nods and influences along for the ride – and what a fun ride it is. The rustic brick-and-wood interior feels comfortable, fresh and unimposing. The staircase separates the noisier bar area from the more romantic upper level. (In case you’re wondering, the two “it” tables are the ones right up against the window facing tree-lined 13^th street.) The staff seem to have all graduated from the same tone school of upbeat, friendly, knowledgeable and not too serious, and their countless journeys up and down the stairs keep them well toned too.

Polenta Chips with Bacalá (Salted cod)

Let’s talk about the Polenta Chips with Bacalá (salted cod) for a minute. I used to think that I was very familiar with Polenta and its various texture options. I’ve eaten it soft, hard, droopy, soupy and dry, but never before have I encountered it crispy. After normal preparation, it gets dehydrated and then fried to a pork-crackling crisp, but not without a little cooperation from Mother Nature herself. Just like frizzy hair, excessive humidity can ruin this delectable treat and banish it from the menu.

Hamachi

The Hamachi with Pepperoncino and Soy is transcendent. The best cut of Sashimi with a decidedly Mediterranean accent. And the cerignola green olive tapenade with wasabi (a little less flavor-forward than I had anticipated) gently transforms the Tuna into 3 little red blocks of sunshine.

There was a delightful yet invisible crunch and plenty of salty/citrusy flavors in the Garganelli, but it did appear as if the preparation might have been a bit too rigorous for the delicate Peekytoe crab.

Garganelli with Peekytoe crab

The Lumache with Aged Duck Ragu on the other hand had everything going for it – sweetness from chocolate, bitterness from treviso (a version of radicchio), richness from (many a cup of) red wine and a solid prediction that this might well become the darling of the menu. Thanks to the morel mushrooms for their meaty texture and the preserved plums for their rich saltiness, it was almost impossible to believe that the woundrous Spring Pea Shoots were entirely vegetarian.

And all I can say about the desert is that you had better pray that the Hazelnut Mousse with Chocolate Crème and Candied Hazelnuts wasn’t just a one-time replacement to the menu.

Did someone just push all my buttons?

http://allondanyc.com/reserve

Fleur de Soleil with Spring Peas

I had 2 rather unique experiences last week. One was being able to eat at 2 of Andrew Carmellini’s cuisine-contrasting restaurants, the urban Italian Locanda Verde (see separate blog) and his equally, furiously popular French bistro Lafayette where I attended my first soiree of Le Chaine des Rôtisseurs. Founded in the middle ages, Le Chaine hosts multiple events throughout its various global chapters as a means to celebrate and cultivate the enjoyment of and appreciation for great food and wine. Aside from the garlanded medal-wearing members, equally intriguing and beguiling are their 4 strict rules:

1. No speeches! We are here to eat, drink and enjoy. Nothing else.
2. No salt or pepper! Always considered an insult to the chef, here it’s a mandate.
3. No water! Who needs water when you’re serving wine?
4. Start eating as soon as you are served! The chef intended for you to taste his/her food at its optimal temperature regardless of what decorum demands.

And so clutching at our anticipation, we made our way down into the Cave du Vin just below Lafayette’s bright Bowery bistro & bakery for a festive journey into Carmellini’s modern menu starting with a seemingly endless collection of the most spotlight-stealing amuse-bouches that normally go unmentioned. Not tonight. If the bottom half of a vanilla Macarón supporting a delightfully fluffy black pepper Foie Gras crème with a single stewed blueberry didn’t bring me to my knees, then the postage-stamp sized, ultra-thin Beef Rossini with Truffle Aioli finished the job.

I’m always weary that a Prime Beef Tartare has the potential to be as heavy as a bucket of bricks, but this horseradish-spiked, quail egg-topped version was as light as foam. Even though the perfectly grilled Asparagus with sweet Citrus Mimosa really enjoyed the salty balance of the Bayonne ham, it appeared that whomever was on ham-crisping duty might have been somewhat distracted. The light and flowery Fleur de Soleil fresh pasta with crunchy spring peas was perfectly paired with a sublime 2005 Volnay from Domaine de La Pousse d’Or. The Lamb Chops with whole-wheat Couscous were served over a satiny and rich amber-colored Moroccan mustard sauce, the delicious kind that always ends too soon, but fortunately the extraordinary 2000 Chateau Calon-Segur lingered on.

Classic Tarte Tatin with Creme Fraiche

Believe it or not, producing a classic Tarte Tatin is not as simple as apple-pie. I would have contemplated adding this one to my favorite-desserts-ever list – were it not completely upstaged by the Vanilla Cream Puffs. Even the strongest of wills had to surrender to these mandarin-sized, hard-crack Caramel-coated, soft-centered pastries from heaven.

Vive la Chaine!

http://lafayetteny.com/

Foie Gras Torchon

In the admirable way that master yogi’s prefer to admit that they only practice yoga, (it is the essence of humility that constantly reminds them that there is always something more to learn) it is just as true for sommeliers. Theirs is a never-ending education with new blends, vintages, laws, labels and wineries mushrooming daily all across the globe. To be a sommelier means to be able to discern a wide variety of tastes and help diners distinguish good from great wines. To be a master sommelier means having a comprehensive knowledge of geography, history, law and languages as well as a highly reliable (and remarkable) sense-memory for thousands of different aromas and taste combinations. Not surprisingly there are fewer than 100 master sommeliers in the world today, and one of them comes in the form of the effervescent, charming and unpretentious Laura Maniec – one of Wine Enthusiast’s 40-under-40 and proprietor of the Greenwich Village wine hotspot Cork Buzz Wine Studio.

The 3-in-1 premise behind Cork Buzz is a serious but approachable wine bar, an outstanding kitchen with communal-table dining and a comprehensive and empowering wine school. The high-ceilinged, techy, yet cozy modern space easily accommodates all 3 due to its flexible moving walls and partitions. The staff are all aspiring oenophile protégés and passionate advocates of the predictably deep and varied wine list that extends the premise that a good wine doesn’t necessarily have to be fashionable, popular or expensive. I have spent many an hour at the school and each time I come away with renewed passion and insights for a particular region, country or varietal, or an unexpected food/wine pairing rationale.

Chef Phil Conlon is a big champion of local farmers’ market seasonal ingredients, but even his small plate staples are worth crossing Union Square for. The sweet and chilli spiked Crispy Pork Belly with Red Cabbage Slaw is a borderline-religious experience in tang, crunch and tenderness. The Crispy Potatoes reminiscent of Patatas Bravas are served in a rich duck confit, perfectly paired with the bite of jalapeño aioli for top-end flavor. The Foie Gras Torchon unashamedly embraces the almost dessert-like sweetness of the strawberry-balsamic glaze with the added crunch of pistachios. I always allow the waiters to pair wines with each dish, and their serious consideration and respect for the ingredients is nothing short of adorable.

If I had to choose a wine mentor, it would be Laura Maniec. And if I had to pick a relaxed, fun environment to learn everything about wine, it would be Cork Buzz.

http://unionsquare.corkbuzz.com/

Burrata with Watermelon

The definition of a successful franchise is to replicate your original establishment over and over again, in as many places as possible without ever changing a single detail, so that an unobservant diner won’t realize if he just left a tip in Los Angeles, Lima or Lisbon. Sad, but true.

Well, the team that created the expense-account-haven Il Mulino in Greenwich Village decided to do just the opposite! Instead of re-creating the serious, stuffy, dark-and-formal Ristorante that has been a permanent fixture on West 3^rd street for over twenty years, the first thing they did after bursting into their new Flatiron home was throw away the rule book. If the original Il Mulino is the stoic godfather, then this Trattoria is the naughty grandson – like an irreverent party-boy who drives too fast and stays out too late (but who has MUCH more fun than anyone else!) Clearly the fresh canvas will attract a brand new generation of avid followers – including me.

Here you won’t find any creaky floorboards, heavy wood panels or gruff Coke-bottle-bottom-bespectacled waiters. Oh no. Here everyone’s a hunky twenty-something with massive personalities and uncanny memories for names. The art is bright and modern, the lighting is overt and interesting, and the only texture that can possibly absorb the din are the ribbons of fresh pasta and Salumi. One section of the “cater-to-all-tastes” menu pays homage to the classic dishes still being ordered on West 3^rd , like the sage-flavored Double-cut Veal Chop, but the rest of the options are cheeky, fun and bold. Who says you can’t pair Burrata with Watermelon? Who says you can’t pound the Chicken in Crosta breast into 360 degrees and then smother it with a decadent lemon sauce? Add a side of Braised Kale Parmigiano and you are on your way to embracing the new Italian casual-chic.

Side note: For some of us, living in the mega-forest of great restaurants can be a daunting reality. If it’s therefore important to find somewhere where “everyone knows your name”, then this would be my ground-zero!

http://www.trattoriailmulino.com/