Eating up in Old Town San Juan

February 18, 2022 / Roger Hyde / 1 Comment

Despite everything Puerto Rico has endured, from devastating hurricanes, droughts, floods and a generous helping of corrupt politicians, the pervasive cheerful charm and gracious hospitality never seems to wane. For the perfect mid-winter respite from the sub-zero northeast, Puertorricueños know exactly how to pamper their (quasi) countryfolk with just the right mix of ethnic culture, creature comforts and a very hip dining scene. But beyond the Lego landscape of indistinguishable glass and concrete towers elbowing for a view of the coastline, it is the 1-square mile of Old town San Juan, (now a UNESCO World Heritage site) that truly embodies the city’s astonishing history and unique traditions – while offering a sumptuous feast for the senses. And I mean all of them.

I’ve found that the best place to savor your way into a foreign culture is from street level. You not only get the benefit of a unique perspective of the historic character and architectural influences surrounding you as you hear, smell and taste the nitty-gritty of a city, but walking between bites is supposed to be very good for the digestion too! Nahiomy, our delightfully approachable fountain of information tour-guide punctuates our casual sojourn along the cobble-stoned streets with history lessons about San Juan’s storied past, (including the clerical mishap where the Spanish royal court accidentally transposed the original name of the island, San Juan-after St. John the Baptist, with the prospering port city, Puerto Rico-rich port. But that, says Nahiomy, is history.)

We start off by sampling some of the island’s very impressive small-batch, artisanal, shade-grown coffee. Café Cuatro Sombras offers a rich, cherry, chocolatey Cortadito (a shot of Espresso with milk) as the perfect complement to their sugar-dusted ham & cheese Mallorca roll with an incredibly decadent sweet ‘n sour oomph of guava butter.

A few blocks (and several history lessons) later, just as the mid-morning bake begins to set in, we stop for a bracingly tart and tingly, fresh-fruit popsicle at Señor Paleta – the 8-year old frozen treat store started by a pharmacist, his physicist buddy and a tricycle.

Continuing our crisscross jaunt along myriad pink, teal, yellow and dove grey buildings, we arrive at an artsy corridor between two houses bedecked with brightly colored yet alarmingly fierce-looking masks with horns, thorns and needles to gawk at while you savor West African Creole specialties at Café el Punto. Here I try my first (of what will turn out to be way too many) Alcapurrias – the most delectable gluten-free version of a fried empanada. The soft and buttery shell made from smashed yuca can be wrapped around just about anything from vegetables to crab to garlicky beef.

Creole Chicken Mofongo with rice & beans, Triana

At Flamenco hot-spot Triana, we roll up our sleeves to build our own Mofongo. After mashing the slices of sautéed plantain against ground garlic and butter with a wooden pestle and mortar, we insert a portion of Creole chicken before inverting the concoction out onto a plate. As the soft, and creamy textures combine with the ever-so-slightly spicy shredded chicken, we learn that in the absence of potatoes on the island, laborers would get their daily carb sustenance from plantains instead.

And just like that, we find ourselves right in front of Casa Cortes Chocobar, home to Puerto Rico’s most beloved purveyors of confectionary. Not only does the Cortes family produce meltable hot chocolate bars as well as the ever-so-creamy-dreamy-chocolatey Latin cousin of a Cannoli known as a Quesito, but what I found to be sweetest of all are the insides of their chocolate candy wrappers that depict a series of collectible comics containing educational stories and lessons that help improve literacy and history amongst the islands’ children.

Buen provecho!

Classic Old San Juan Food Tour

https://cuatrosombras.com/

PickUp

http://cafeelpunto.com/

https://www.chocobarcortes.com/location/old-san-juan/

Turning the page on eating out in NYC

January 18, 2022 / Roger Hyde / Leave a comment

Every now and then (out of pure nostalgia) I re-read some of my older restaurant reviews. But lately I’ve been rather astonished by how many of them have unsurprisingly fallen victim to the palaver of the pandemic. I could certainly dedicate a tribute to the tragic demise of New York’s most beloved dining rooms – where bold dishes launched global careers of talented toques, or I could wallow and grieve over how their narrow doorways once buckled under the clogged throngs of noisy hopefuls willing to trade their offspring for a 4-top, are now replaced with soundless 3-foot “For Lease” signs, but I’d rather dedicate this blog to those supremely brave entrepreneurs who defied the writing on the wall (or perhaps looked the other way while capitalizing on new rental incentives) and opened some of the most exciting eateries this city has seen in ages.

While kitchens have been born and re-born all across the length and breadth of Manhattan, the Gramercy/Flatiron neighborhood has been dished up a disproportionate embarrassment of new dining riches. Former Betony star-chef Bryce Shuman opened a sizable space inside the Park South Hotel with his new trendy venture Sweetbriar – a wood-fired spin on American classics underscored by an 80’s nostalgia soundtrack of Springsteen, Men at Work, Duran Duran and Billy Joel. His unassuming but ridiculously more-ish and curiously cheese-less Mangalitsa Ham pizza, topped with pickled chili and honey all but outshines his (now famous) gooey, sticky, heavenly Smoked black pepper Duroc maple glazed ribs with slaw. A finger-licking, chin-smearing, toothpick-requiring, napkin-staining delight.

Smoked black pepper Duroc ribs, Sweetbriar

Who can forget the media hullabaloo around the opening of Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas’ Indian hotspot Sona a few doors down from the (thankfully) ever-enduring Gramercy Tavern? But beyond the hype and the over-Instragrammed dining-room artwork, the kitchen delivers handsomely. I still catch myself drooling over the wondrously tart and umami Stuffed Chicken Wings spiked with a Tangra curry and a lemon aioli dip – the perfect precursor to a pair of succulent and sublimely smoky Tamarind Barbecue Lamb Chops.

And right across the street, the 9^th descendent of Tokyo’s Horii family opened the newest branch of their 233 year-old udon noodle franchise Sarashina Horii. Aside from their über-authentic (surprisingly white) Japanese buckwheat noodles which are the unparalleled main attraction, one of the standout hot appetizers is an elegant Miso Roasted Eggplant – about as delectable as it is surprising with hints of deep, dark and earthy sweet & sour thanks to the Mirin, Saki and who knows what else… But dipping that birds-nest tangle of shatter-crisp Shrimp tempura into a steaming bowl of hearty bone broth is where dark winter’s night memories get made.

Replacing the shuttered Simon and the Whale from the corner spot at the Freehand Hotel on Lexington Avenue is a reincarnation of the 2012 Greenwich Village pan-Latin hotspot Comodo. The menu reads like a “best-of” Peruvian, Brazlian, Mexican and Argentinian hit parade with big, bold flavors and a wide variety of meat, fish, poultry and veggie options in a super-chill, apres-ski-chalet-like environment. The Trout Ceviche Tostada is a mouthful of contrasts: smooth & crispy, sweet & tart, mild & hot. The hockey-puck-sized Wild mushroom al Ajillo Tacos deliver a smoky combination of at least 6 different mushrooms in a dark but approachable chili, and the wondrously moist and picante Achiote Chicken is perched on top of a creamy, dreamy herb-rich Latin Risotto.

Long before chef Hoyoung Kim was able to launch his long-awaited tasting menu at Jua, the 8 tidy tables nestled into the turning lane on 22^nd street served as his a’ la carte springboard for yet another example of sensationally meticulous Korean gastronomy. Not only did Kim succeed in opening his new shop just a few weeks after lockdown ended, but his 7-course $150 menu (which varies from week to week) earned him the neighborhood’s most recent Michelin Star.

Further afield, the East Village has also become a fertilized sprouting ground for a bevy of new kitchens including Shenarri Freeman’s sensational vegan micro-menu at Cadence. With influences from her upbringing in Virginia, she upends traditional dishes with multi-dimensional tastes using local and seasonal vegetables and ersatz non-protein meats. Here’s what I mean: Instead of yet another rendition of the overplayed crab cake, she whips up a Palm Cake patty of similar texture from creamy hearts of palm and chunky chickpeas and serves it with a smoky-spicy slaw. And instead of a square stack of layers of pasta and sauce, her Southern Fried Lasagne is a crispy manicotti curled around a vegan bolognaise with pine nut ricotta, which makes for the ultimate symphony of crispy, tangy, rich and fabulous.

In and amongst the sordid selection of mediocre dumpling, falafel, bubble-tea, tattoo and piercing bars along St. Mark’s Place, the Da Shan group must have spent half a dynasty creating the magnificently photogenic Shanghainese palace CheLi. With an ornate menu as long as the waiting line outside, steaming dishes of semi-translucent Longjing Shrimp and the bamboo boxed and edible-ink stamped Song Dynasty steamed bun elicit shrieks of delight and nostalgia from the Chinese expats who relish the authentic tastes from the Jiangnan region.

Cardamom roll, Caneles and Croissant, La Cabra

Even though East Village coffee shops can easily out-number CVS drugstores, the coffee maven team behind La Cabra have imported their connoisseur bean-and-brew expertise from Aarhus, Denmark. The intimidatingly fastidious, white lab-coat-wearing, super-serious baristas who use scales and thermometers and “aeropresses” to pour carefully crafted cups of Joe are a jolting reminder that we’re not in line at Starbucks anymore, Toto. But all that painstaking brewmanship is almost entirely over-shadowed by the remarkable in-house bakery under the supervision of former Brooklyn Bien Cuit pastry sous chef Jared Sexton. The Butter Croissants are entirely beyond question or debate the absolute best that this city has to offer (and I have done 10 years of very exhaustive research in this arena. Blog to follow.) Amongst the 8 other oven-fresh or pre-baked (and mostly unfamiliar) Danish pastry items is the Cardamom Bun. A tangy, sweet, syrupy, cinnamony, soft twist of sticky dough knockout – guaranteed to postpone any carb-free new year’s resolution until Easter.

I suppose relocations shouldn’t really count as “new” restaurants, but I am nonetheless grateful that David Chang found a new (and rather glitzy) spot for wildly popular Momofuku Ssam in the South Street Seaport, and after shuttering Barbuto in SoHo in 2019, Johnathan Waxman reopened in a much airier space in the West Village where I can still get my all-time favorite Roast Chicken with salsa verde, and the crispiest roast Potatoes in the Western hemisphere. Similar kudos to Dominic Ansel who launched his newest outpost Dominic Ansel Workshop on the edge of Madison Square Park. Not quite as tirelessly prolific as his West Village original (which still commands a steady stream of out-of-towners anxious to bite into their first Cronut), but a slam dunk answer to the “what shall I bring for dessert?” question.

After shutting down Noodlelove for a few months, Philadelphia-born toque Natalie Camerino re-conceived her fast-casual Asian menu to include a few comfort-food mash-ups as a tribute to her Umma (mother). And while a Bulgogi Cheesesteak Bao might summon images of a Korean tourist stuck at the Philadelphia Greyhound station, just one ever-so-scrumptious familiar – yet unfamiliar, spicy, sweet-and-sour bite is all it takes to wonder why no-one ever thought of this before.

Other newcomers still high on my “To try” list:

British seafood bistro Dame’s classic Fried Fish, Danny Meyer’s Veal Milanese at his new far-west outpost Ci Siamo, Brooklyn’s Gage & Tollner who apparently make a Bone-in rib-eye and Baked Alaska to platz for, pretty much anything on the menu at Semma and Dhamaka, and whatever “shaker-inspired food” might taste like at the two-month-old Commerce Inn, from the Jody Williams and Rita Sodi dreamteam (who brought us super-hits Bavette, I Sodi and Via Carota).

Eat up!

Atomix review

April 21, 2021April 21, 2021 / Roger Hyde / 3 Comments

Arctic Char with grape glaze and white asparagus and a Spring green salad, Atomix

When I think of Korean food, my mind simmers about an assemblage of little sauces and dips with varying degrees of kimchee-ness surrounding those quirky little bronze barbecues draped with wafer thin medallions of beef, chicken or pork that sizzle and shrivel in direct contrast to my swelling appetite. And while New York can boast the gamut in Korean kitchens from laid-back to lavish, only two have earned a matching set of twin Michelin stars – Jungsik and Atomix – and both have benefited from the hands of master food scientist Junghyun Park. As an elevated second act after his highly popular, casual-minimalist bistro Atoboy, Park’s career-defining Atomix transcends far beyond esculent Korean cuisine while also challenging every notion of what dining out in New York City means.

The staunchly residential, tree-lined block of brownstone townhouses provides no clue that there may be a business – let alone a $250-a-plate, 11-course culinary tour de force – waiting within.

The multi-level, softly-lit, stone and beach wood tones exude a formal, understated yet unavoidably sexy, modernist elegance which completes the transition from Murray Hill to Seoul as you take one of 14 seats (only 8 during COVID) at the granite, U-shaped chef’s table. Aside from the astonishingly bespoke ceramic dish ware, the most surprising sight within the narrow, functional kitchen is the distinct lack of cooking staff. Chef Park and only 2 sous-chefs spend their entire day picking, prepping, poaching and plating for two sold-out nightly sittings.

Another refreshing contrast to most big ticket, chef’s table soirees is that each course is introduced by a decorative printed card that allows Park to share his personal perspective on what each dish means to him, while also listing the entire compliment of ingredients from glaze to garnish.

(In case you were wondering, there’s negligible risk of anyone rushing out to plagiarize his creations, as many of the ingredients are not just unavailable, but also largely unpronounceable).

Red Seabream with Lemongrass meringue, Atomix

The delightful team of dark grey, smock-wearing servers is yet another twist on other hoity-toity, multi-course tasting establishments. Taking their sociability and hospitality cues from Park’s wife and business partner Ellia, the fresh-faced group seems encouraged to share their jocular personalities. But make no mistake: even if the serving-staff refuses to take itself too seriously, the food is nothing but.

King crab donut with Myeongran & salted strawberry ketchup, Atomix

With quarterly rotating menus that depict the seasons, our selection of fundamentally fish-forward dishes featured many species imported from Japan, Scandinavia, Europe and of course Korea, exploring tastes, textures and radical flavor combinations seldom seen on other downtown menus. And by radical, I’m referring to equal parts brave and brilliant ingredient combinations like a flat meringue made from lemongrass supporting a morsel of Red seabream. Or a fried King crab donut with a salted strawberry ketchup and chili sauce.

Langoustine with doenjang caramel and parae gim powder, Atomix

A few other delectable standouts like the delicately battered Langoustine with a doenjang caramel, and an unbelievably umami Sea Urchin Juk (rice porridge) with spinach and jalapeño, or even the julienned Tilefish sashimi paired with aged Comte cheese sauce and quail eggs are a constant reminder of the depth and brilliance of Chef Park’s repertoire and prowess.

Sea urchin juk with spinach & japeño and a side of horse mackerel, Atomix

If “Ato” means “gift” in Korean, then Atomix is unquestionably the best gift of global flavor combinations ever to be bestowed upon this city.

https://www.atomixnyc.com/

Pork jowl, eel and baby turnip with pea shoot vanilla rice, Atomix

Greenwich Village, fork-by-fork

February 1, 2021 / Roger Hyde / 1 Comment

For centuries, New York’s Greenwich village has been a capital for bohemia, a magnet for the arts and a springboard for social protest. But nowadays, apart from being the most desirable neighborhood in Manhattan where the 1% can rub shoulders with NYU undergrads, it’s also home to an astonishing overabundance of dining options rarely seen anyplace else.

With COVID precautions snugly in place, those restaurants still clutching to their survival with heat lamps and blankets have erected endless corridors of wooden “street-eries” that flank both sides of the narrow tangle of sidewalks from Broadway to the Hudson River.

During a recent “home swap week” we put up a valiant effort to squeeze as many local dining favorites into 3 meals a day. The quality, variety, originality and authenticity of options is carefully baked into the longevity of some of New York’s oldest and most historic institutions. Categorizing them is easy – there are only 2 types of restaurant in Greenwich Village: Italian, and everything else!

Starting with breakfast, a relative newcomer to the neighborhood is one of 4 outposts of Australian brunch hotspot Citizens of Bleecker. If Melbourne has managed to influence Manhattan in only one way, it has to be for producing the perfect Flat White coffee. But thanks to Citizens, my newest all-time favorite hot beverage fetish, the Golden Latte, is a frothy, almondy, gingery, turmeric-y foam-party in a cup – which pairs impeccably well with their tasty woven spiral of scrambled egg curds known as Rose Eggs.

If coffee and croissants are your quotidian kick-starters, then Parisian transplant Olivier Dessyn’s patisserie and baking school Mille Feuille is where you’ll find one of the top 3 Croissants in New York City. Just flaky enough. Just buttery enough. Just brown enough. Not too heavy on the sponge, but not flatulent with air pockets either. One is good. Two are spectacular.

If you’d prefer a wholesome bowl of oatmeal but refuse to stand, stir and stare at a pot in your Greenwich village micro-kitchen, you can pick up one of the 30+ varieties at Oat Meals. The pappa-bear, mamma-bear and baby-bear-sized porridge bowls of perfectly cooked oats come with toppings so inventive and amazing that Ben & Jerry & Baskin & Robbin would all drown in their own cherry-sprinkle drool. Sure, they have all the usual suspects like berries, bananas, nuts, honey, peanut-butter, granola and brown sugar, but how about pineapple, dried pomegranate seeds, crystallized ginger, poached eggs, parmesan, bacon and soy?

One of my all-time favorite lunch options is NY Dosas. Sri Lankan born Thiru Komar has been serving up vegan Masala Dosas from his impossibly small cart in Washington Square Park for two decades. Village regulars and fans of Padma Lakshmi’s Hulu hit “Taste the Nation” line up for hot coils of delectable wafer-thin chickpea crepes that clutch a generous dollop of turmeric spiced potatoes. An unsurprising Instagram sensation, Komar serves a few other delights, like Samosas and Pondicherri, but nothing beats a crispy-on-the-edges, spongy-in-the-middle Dosa in the shade of the Washington arch.

Another village veteran Mamoun’s, has been churning out authentic Mediterranean street-food fare for 45 years. There mere thought of their lamb Shawarma trapped inside that fluffy pita, dripping with salad and tahini and topped with a blast or two of their nuclear strength red-hot sauce brings tears to my eyes, sweat to my brow and joy to my tastebuds.

The sandwich to end them all is a heavenly Muffuletta from Faicco’s. Piled high with layer upon layer of exceptionally fresh, house-made salami’s, cheeses, oils and tapenades crammed into a blonde hero roll that can feed an entire construction site for a week.

When it comes to eating outdoors in mid-winter, some say there is no such thing as bad weather – only bad clothing. I would add that the spicier the food, the less any of it really matters. Ramen Danbo offers a highly customizable bowl of umami goodness, guaranteed to warm the coldest and pickiest of hearts. You can select the thickness and doneness of your noodles, the ingredients and spiciness of your broth (from pork all the way up to vegan) and what accoutrements you’d prefer to see floating around as you spoon away the mere suggestion of sub-zero.

A quick glance across the cluster of tables under a dark tarp in front of Raoul’s validates what to order: a Martini and a Steak au poivre. Sure, you can probably find a decent Steak au poivre from Harlem to Wall street, but few restaurants have served them quite so consistently since 1974. Taking advantage of a very unique cut of fat-less New York strip, every creamy peppercorn and brandy covered morsel is tender, moist and sumptuously delicious.

There are more Italian restaurants in Greenwich Village than in the entire city of Perugia. Just let that sink in that in for a moment. So, finding the best one or two is a futile exercise in subjectivity. There’s literally something for every eye, every taste-bud and every pocket. My suggestion is to find a local you trust, and then taste the neighborhood from their perspective. Well, that’s what we did anyway. Here are some of the highlights…

For a semi-transparent slither of aged prosciutto clinging to the top of a gently fried balloon of crispy, flaky, crackery dough otherwise known as Gnocco Frito, head straight to Rafele. This inexplicably delicious combination of salt, sweet and savory crunch is the absolute definition of a hot “appetizer”.

My favorite red-sauce restaurant in all of New York is still Carbone. If you can look beyond the prices, their crisp, tart and creamy Caesar Salad is sheer poetry, and no-one can pound and crumb a disc of Veal Parmesan into such a perfect suntanned circle, dripping with marinara and melting mozzarella and topped with a crisp slither of fried basil. Yuh-hum!

If you tell a Greenwich villager you went to Arturo’s for the best pizza, there’s a 50/50 chance you’ll start an argument, but I’m a believer now. There’s nothing subtle about this place. Its utilitarian charm permeates from having witnessed 5 decades of Houston street history. While regulars dominate the tables in shifts, an endless peloton of hot-box laden delivery riders scatter in every direction. The Fiesta Pizza is most likely why everyone is here. Thin-crusted, black-edged, multi-colored, tomato-y, chunky, chewy and heavenly cheesy.

If you still have room, head over to Bar Pitti for a slightly indulgent but utterly authentic slice of Torta de la Nonna. Just the right amount of lemony, custardy, pine-nutty, biscuity scrumptiousness that conjures up memories of those roly-poly hills of Tuscany on a late summer’s afternoon…as you sit in your frigid winter coat reality, separated into plexiglass cubes while being blanched by the overhead heaters.

Still high on my favorites list (with just not enough meals to go around this time) there’s also Il Mulino (the original red sauce palace), I Sodi (sensational Lasagne), Via Carota (heavenly bun-less burger), with Don Angie & L’Artusi to round things out.

Buon appetito!

Dining in the turning lane.

September 24, 2020 / Roger Hyde / Leave a comment

These days, sitting at a dinner table in New York City directly facing oncoming traffic is a bit like climbing out of a rollercoaster in mid loop-de-loop. In order to survive you need a severe case of cabin-fever, a high tolerance for risk, a great relationship with your bladder, a healthy appetite…and a face-mask of course.

As I savor my chorizo-crusted cod while the sanitation truck idles right beside me churning garbage from the upper-east side, or as I splash Negroni all over my chin when the M101 bus suddenly blasts an impatient horn at a stopped SUV, I begin to wonder whether motorists from out-of-town are even aware that what used to be a turning lane – is now a dining room. While this respite from apartment cooking is certainly welcome, it’s merely a matter of time before the headlines read: “Three casualties as Range Rover ruins birthday dinner”, or “Texting driver rams couple during dessert”.

It certainly has been disheartening to witness one staple institution after the next throwing in the napkin as a consequence of the lockdown. But then I find myself inspired by the resilience and determination of others who are trying to keep their wood-ovens burning despite all the new safety rules and regulations.

If I had to score how well restaurants are maintaining COVID safety measures? I’d give them a solid “D” for “it Depends”. Some have QR code menu’s with contactless bill-pay and sterilized, pre-packaged silverware, while others still clutch sticky, plastic menus under sweaty armpits, or hold your glass with an ungloved hand for water refills. But despite the chorus of complaints that most restaurateurs are still not able to eke out a living with sidewalk dining, others have won the jackpot as they can now exploit the motherlode of self-promotion and appetite persuasion by giving passers-by delectable temptations with some of their freshest, most desirable offerings in real time. Yes, even I have stopped and admired a dish of steaming Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe and promptly planted my rear-end into the nearest available seat.

Other advantages of dining in the parking lane include the diminishment of those irritatingly hoity-toity dress-codes like “business casual” or “cocktail attire” for the ever-so democratic “no mask – no service!” And obscure, hole-in-the-wall establishments are holes-in-the-wall no more, as their tables have crept up and down our sidewalks faster than rats on the subway. Half of me is thrilled for these entrepreneurs who can now accommodate exponentially more diners per sitting than in pre-COVID times, but my heart goes out to their micro kitchens bursting at the seams, trying to satisfy quadruple the appetites.

Scaffolding, formerly the ubiquitous feature along Manhattan’s streets, has been upstaged by a strange outcrop of little outdoor “areas” that defy description. Are they tents? Are they shacks, cabanas, marquees, food caves, sukkah’s? Regardless, there are no two alike. Some are merely umbrella-covered matchstick frames with a handful of morosely overwatered begonias. And if they have more elbow room, others have ensconced attractive hedging to keep diners apart. But every time I find myself sandwiched between those ridiculous plexiglass screens, I can’t help feeling like a hungry puppy in a pet shop window.

Even scaffolding-fronted bistros have made the best of their visual impediment by transforming their sidewalks into Disney-esque, theme park sensations. When clustered together on pedestrian-only cross-streets amid jazz bands and buskers, these shacks have somehow fashioned a uniquely warm and astonishingly festive ambiance which has become the newest nightlife attraction in a city formerly famous for not sleeping. Think: Oktoberfest – meets Chilli-cookout – meets travelling circus – meets Christmas market.

As temperatures begin to plummet, many lightweight structures are getting overnight makeovers with sturdier materials including roofing, rain gutters and solid side-paneling (heat lamps are on the way) – quickly transforming them into enclosed “rooms” which will undoubtably beg the question: “Is this still considered “outdoor dining” or have we merely transplanted the restaurant’s interiors onto the sidewalk?” (If Governor Cuomo want’s my opinion on the matter, he knows where to find me.)

As we edge closer to the former normality of indoor dining, I have mixed feelings about whether folks will show up and risk infection or whether they might continue to dine al fresco even if the new dress-code includes coat, scalf, gloves…and face-mask.

Eating up Maine’s coastline

September 4, 2020March 24, 2021 / Roger Hyde / 1 Comment

Elevating our destination options beyond the kitchen and dining room have been tricky this summer. But fortunately for mask-wearing, rule-abiding, socially vacant New Yorkers, Maine has become a silver lining on the Corona horizon. If not just for the adorable New England homes clad in white narrow siding and steep steepled churches amid emerald jungles of spruce, maple and pine, nor the freckles of islands polka-dotting the coastline, the Maine food scene is a sizable draw to the northeastern most state – the largest of which includes the ever-popular lobster dinner pilgrimage from all around the globe.

Whole live lobsters, Five Islands Lobster Co. – Georgetown

Judging by the multitudes of cottage industries you travel past along US route 1, it becomes apparent that Mainers are very serious about what they chew on, regardless of what else you might find on the same plate. “Lobster rolls & Ice-cream”, shrieked one roadside sign. Then another. And another. “Salt-water taffy & Steamer clams” was perhaps less frequent, as was “Maine Blueberries & fresh Haddock” or “Antiques and Blueberry scones”. But “Furniture & Fudge” has to be my all-time favorite!

Assorted pastries, Tandem Bakery – Portland

Thanks to COVID: restaurants, bistros, coffee shops and bakeries have all retooled the way they dispense their eats and treats to loyal locals or clued-in out-of-towners. Distanced dine-in, wait-listed dine-out, on-line ordering, drive-by pick-up, and reheat-at-home vary from one establishment to the next, but the quality and variety are pretty darn remarkable.

My dining recommendations stretch northwards from low-Maine (ha!) to Bar Harbor and a bunch of kitchens in between.

KENNEBUNKPORT

Perhaps the most elegant spot in all its silver-service-candelabra-white-linen-live-pianist glory is the 46 year-old White Barn Inn Restaurant. These days, the only farm animals in this magnificently renovated former barn are either peppercorn-crusted or crispy skin sauteed. The multi-option 4-course set menu is contemporary, flavor-forward with hints of nostalgia and an emphasis on an elevated dining experience that never lets you forget where you are.

Absolute standouts have to be the citrusy-fruity-fresh Halibut crudo with watermelon, plums, mint and yuzu koshu, and the decadent Lobster bisque doused with a shot of espresso crème fraiche, and of course an incredibly tender and phenomenally umami Beef tenderloin with Foie Gras Crust. Being a sucker for fruit courses, I was also smitten with their Raspberry sorbet spiked with rhubarb and black peppercorns.

Beef Tenderloin with Foie Gras Crust, White Barn Inn

Perhaps the healthiest start to your day in this charming hamlet is a fresh acai bowl or an open-faced sandwich from Fiafia. This buzzy corner coffee shop makes everything from scratch with the freshest of ingredients. Their version of an Avocado toast includes a tomato pesto with runaway crispy gorbanzo beans, and the legendary Bananarama almond-butter and banana toast with coconut chips is beyond sublime.

As we were focused on orchestrating our own private “lobster-fest”, we stood in line at the famous Clam Shack for a hearty, crisp and meaty lobster roll served between the puffy cheeks of a butter-toasted burger bun (versus the standard northern slit along a hotdog roll). Antoni Porovski from “Queer Eye” recently named it the best Lobster Roll in the nation, but as scrumptious as it might be, I had many more ahead of me before rendering a verdict quite so promptly.

PORTLAND

Not sure what it is about this sleepy portside town, but Portland is home to some of the most memorable meals of my (most recent) life. If you haven’t already put your name on the waiting list at Eventide, you’ll probably never get a table.

Oysters with ice accoutrements, Eventide

They modestly call it a “reimagined classic Oyster Bar”, but their James Beard award winning kitchen skills stretch far beyond shucking. Sure, the oysters are sublime but the accoutrements are what got my sails up. Instead of hot sauce (yawn) or mignonette (snore), these guys make ice slushies out of Tabasco. And Kimchi. And red onion. And horseradish. I mean…come on.

Their brown butter tossed Lobster Roll in a bao bun is so insanely tasty that it has its own trademark forgoodnesssakes. I snagged the recipe for their delectable New England Clam chowder, which includes salt pork for an extra layer of smokiness.

Another informal outdoor favorite is Duckfat. The long lines of expectation for their 7-of-a-kind Paninis (from duck to brisket) don’t disappoint. Even the daily special Maine lobster with fresh claw-and-knuckle meat, house-cultured cream, cotilla cheese, smoked corn and lime, crushed between hot, grooved ciabatta slices is a transcendent hit. But the real reason these guys had to build a special staging area just for the waiting list, is their crispy Belgian fries with 5 spiked mayo dipping sauces.

Belgian Fries with Dipping sauce flight, Duckfat

Just like Philadelphia’s two rival Philly Cheesesteak shops (Geno’s and Pat’s), Portland has two rival bakeries flanking either end of town. The Standard Bakery in a former dockland warehouse on the east end and Tandem Coffee, a former gas station in the west.

Both serve fresh, daily & delicious croissants, scones, breads and treats to a steady stream of loyal locals who seem quite willing to stand in line from the dawn’s early light.

Dark Chocolate, Maple Bacon and Maine Blueberry donuts, Holy Donuts

But if you can’t decide between a slice of cake or a donut, why not try them both…together. Holy Donuts infuse their flavors well beneath the frosting. Whether it’s Dark chocolate glazed or Maple bacon or Sweet potato, these might look like donuts – but they taste like cake. And adding to the curiosity factor, it’s the local mashed potatoes that gives them their unique melt-in-the-mouth texture. (So, does that mean that 1 donut = 1 serving of vegetables?)

The best lobster roll in Portland is a mere hop and a skip to the south in luscious Cape Elizabeth at Two Lights Lobster, and for those who can’t decide between butter or mayo, you get both. Oh, and the 270 degree Atlantic ocean view is an added bonus.

Fore Street is the swankiest and most renown establishment in the city, partly because it gave birth to Portland’s newfound foodie scene, but thanks also to the multi-sensory, high-drama pageant. As your eyes adjust to the candle-lit, high ceilinged, warehouse space, the smell of the wood oven and open rotisserie permeates as a perfect underscore to an endless parade of chefs and waiters shuttling one delectable locally farm-raised dish after the next.

Wood oven roasted rope-cultured mussels, Fore Street

Blueberry salad with kale and duck confit in a mint honey vinaigrette, Wood oven roasted rope-cultured mussels in a magnificent garlic and almond butter with dry vermouth, a succulent Hangar steak spiked with chimichurri, or a ridiculously wondrous Pork loin, hand-rubbed with who knows what are just a fraction of the culinary avalanche.

GEORGETOWN

The best and freshest lobsters (with the longest lines, naturally) can be found at Five Islands Lobster Co. (Amusing sidebar: we declined their offer of “crackers”, assuming these to be of the crispy, Saltine variety – only to realize that we were out of options to pry open our steaming dinner. I might as well have worn a “Clueless” cap all day.)

ROCKLAND

About a half song’s drive south of Camden, you might overshoot an unremarkable doll’s house, which is home the most authentic farm-to-table Italian restaurant in the state. Uber-popular Primo is a multi-decade, self-sustaining operation that is part farm, part kitchen, part greenhouse, but total phenomenon. “Simplicity, seasonality and freshness” are chef Melissa Kelly’s maxims for delivering home-made breads, pastas, hand-raised pork, chicken, vegetables and locally sourced seafood. To the “spectacular” list I would add their Ricotta & wild nettle cavatelli, tossed with wild mushrooms, grilled sherried chicken, snap peans and greens, and the Pork Saltimbocca, luxuriously layered with garden spinach and prosciutto over a roasted garlic mash in a heavenly mushroom Madeira jus. And if you can make some room, the sensationally crisp, tart and utterly dreamy cherry and rhubarb Crostata is the perfect finale.

CAMDEN

Natalie’s hoity-toity, high-drama décor is pleasantly offset by the attentive and attractive wait staff who bring Camden’s most romantic dining-room all the way down to harbor level. Chef Chris Long’s ultimate antidote to crustacean yearning is a 5-course Lobster tasting menu from rolled to broiled. Other highlights include Seared local scallops over forbidden black rice and summer beans and the amazingly crispy Local halibut with chickpea, basil and zucchini.

Fierce favorite Long Grain (currently serving take-out only) can turn any hotel room into a Pan-Asian cornucopia with their outrageously delicious Vietnamese spicy wings and much-adored Maine crab fried rice.

The rest of this area’s blogworthy bistros proliferate neighboring towns and Hamlets along US route 1, with Chase’s Daily in nearby Belfast being the torchbearer for their bushels of picked-this-morning, hand-raised produce and a small menu of delectable vegan dishes.

Their Cold cucumber soup with buttermilk, dill and cilantro, or the Enchiladas with farm greens, potato, cheddar and cortija, smothered in salsa verde and pickled onions are more than worth the 35 minute drive.

BAR HARBOR

Which brings us to the jewel in Maine’s coastal crown. Bar Harbor has been an “anti-Hampton” summer escape for decades thanks to the incomparable forest, ocean and mountain vistas. But the clutter of T-shirt and tchotchke stores in the mini downtown area has kept dining options more approachable than noteworthy – with 2 big exceptions: Salt & Steel and Veranda. Thirty-something year old chef Bobby Will is a smart and focused Italian toque who fully supports his local purveyors at Salt & Steel with a bold and flavor-forward menu that includes an unforgettably tart Heirloom tomato salad contrasted with lemon ricotta, Maine blueberry-red wine-reduction and crunchy pistachios. Unlike many pastas with shellfish, he only adds a smattering of house-made garganelli to a magnificent bowl of Frenchman Bay mussels with organic bacon and Aleppo pepper.

Organic Sweet Italian Sausage, Salt & Steel

But the knockout on the table is a dark and tangy, sweet and rich Organic Sweet Italian Sausage with lumache pasta, sunflower seed pesto and a handful of oven-dried Kalamata olives for a pinch of salt. Utterly astonishing.

Several rungs up the elegance ladder, nestled under a pergola of jasmine overlooking the last rays of dusk over Frenchman Bay is an astoundingly meticulous kitchen serving high-end dishes with local produce. While the wondrously romantic Veranda at the Balance Rock Inn takes itself fairly seriously, the food is fun enough with some standouts including a deliciously crunchy Scallop tempura and a delightfully citrusy Maine crab salad, but the Risotto with a bright green chive oil ash around the permiter is sensational.

Before we head out of town, the only other local “must do” is MDI Ice-cream. This beloved institution facing the Village green park covers the gamut of flavors, from middle-of-the-road to all the way over-the-cliff. Bay of Figs, Blackstrap banana, Brigadeiro, Coriander lemon curd, fresh basil or Girl scouts and I’m just getting started.

Right on the edge of the Acadia National Park (and probably the final shred of civilization before you enter this natural wonderland) is a quirky little garden bistro called Burning Tree. Allison Martin and Elmer Beal Jr’s seafood and plant-heavy kitchen and bakery is rather like a handful of family secrets combined with an incredible ability to make the absolute best of whatever they can get their hands on. The sensationally delicious Scallop, shrimp and crab fritters breaded with panko and served with a spicy mayo dip have ruined my heretofore love of crab cakes forever. And when I’m not dreaming of the one-of-a-kind Blueberry lavender soup, which is a simple but wicked combination of lavender-infused buttermilk and pureed blueberries, I’m probably trying to replicate their Nicoise-like House-smoked salmon salad.

And finally, if you’re looking for the absolute best and undisputed freshest live lobster or lobster roll in the area, ignore the local hangouts and head straight to Beal’s Lobster Pier in neighboring Southwest Harbor. These guys have been hauling, cooking and shipping Maine’s finest crop to restaurants and homes from around the corner to around the nation. Not only do they know what they are doing, but they’ve been doing it for nearly 100 years. And this delightful ramshackle, family-run institution offers far more than your standard lobster pot fare.

Menu highlights include the simply steamed mussels and clams – so unbelievably fresh that the ocean hasn’t had time to realize that they’re missing, and the most irritatingly more-ish Lobster bites, which are tender morsels of claw meat, crumbed and briefly fried (why did no-one think of this before?) served with lemon sriracha and ginger-soy dips. And speaking of dips, Beal’s have trademarked their amped-up dipping butters to include garlic and spicy buffalo.

Which brings us to the main event – the lobster itself. Now, folks who prefer the tighter and meatier flesh of tail-meat, request females. And those who prefer the softer, more flavorful claw meat, order males. Fine. But in order for a lobster to grow, it has to replace its wardrobe now and then for a larger size. So, if you happen to request a “shedder” at Beal’s, you’re in for the absolute all-time Rolls Royce of crustacean delights. You see, due to having taken on saltwater to fill the gap between body and shell, the lobster has unknowingly (yet most conveniently) brined its flesh, making it more tender, more flavorful and dare I say…sweeter. But you’d better eat up as the season is almost over.

https://www.theclamshack.net

https://aubergeresorts.com/whitebarninn/dine/white-barn-inn-restaurant/

https://www.tandemcoffee.com/pages/bakery

http://www.bealslobster.com

http://www.forestreet.biz

https://www.duckfat.com

http://www.nataliesrestaurant.com

http://www.chasesdaily.me

https://www.theburningtreerestaurant.com

http://www.mdiic.com

https://www.saltandsteelbh.com

https://www.primorestaurant.com

My favorite quarantine recipes Final issue

June 24, 2020 / Roger Hyde / 2 Comments

Melon soup with butter-poached shrimp

As threatened, I stuck to my challenge (like ants to a syrup dribble down the side of a bottle) to never repeat the same home-cooked meal twice as long as the lock-down lasted. But now, as the deep-freeze starts to thaw on the city’s restaurant scene, where bountiful boxwood hedges and hoards of hydrangeas encroach further and further into Manhattan’s avenues, the time has come to hang up my apron, put away my knives and switch my support from grocery stores to the slowly re-emerging culinary industry. As I curiously wait to see which establishments open now, soon, later on or never again, one thing is certain – it’s going to feel downright amazing to hold a (sterilized) menu in my (sanitized) hands as I listen to the specials from a (masked) waiter who refills my water with (gloved) hands! Laissez les bons temps rouler à nouveau. Here though are my final week’s home-cooked recipes.

SUNDAY

Many a good cut of meat gets re-butchered by well-meaning home cooks. But to be fair, the odds are against us: There are so many ways to ruin a steak, but only 1 way to cook it perfectly. This is all you need to know…

Perfectly seared steaks with Green Peppercorn sauce

PERFECTLY SEARED STEAKS

INGREDIENTS

2 filet, strip or sirloin steaks, 1″ thick
kosher salt
ground black peppercorns

DIRECTIONS

Preheat an oven to 200 degrees, middle rack.
Trim the steak of any excess fat around the edges. (They won’t cook long enough for the fat to soften).
Salt them on all sides and let them cook in the cool oven until they reach and internal temperature of 100 degrees. (About 45 minutes).
Rest the steaks for at least 15 minutes.
Heat a cast iron skillet and sear the steaks for just 1-2 minutes per side. Remove from the heat and season with fresh black pepper.

GREEN PEPPERCORN SAUCE

INGREDIENTS

2 Tblsp. Green peppercorns
2 Tblsp. Minced Shallots
Olive Oil
1 Cup Beef broth
3 Tblsp. Brandy
2 Tblsp. Low Fat Sour cream
1 Tsp. ground black pepper
corn starch

DIRECTIONS

Sauté the minced shallots in a little olive oil until they are soft. Add the peppercorns and ground pepper and cook while stirring regularly.
Add the beef broth and bring to a boil until the liquid is reduced by about half.
Add the brandy and simmer for 10 mins on low heat.
Add prepared corn-starch in cold water to thicken – if necessary.
Remove from heat and add the sour cream and serve immediately.

MONDAY

Over the years I have amended and tweaked this fairly fool-proof recipe for a spectacularly refreshing, relatively classic and utterly yummy Chinese Chicken salad.

Chinese Chicken Salad

CHINESE CHICKEN SALAD

INGREDIENTS

1 lb skinless and boneless chicken breasts
1 Tblspn Asian sesame oil
1 Tblspn Chinese chili garlic sauce
1 Tblspn finely minced garlic
1 Tblspn finely minced ginger
2 tspn fresh lime or lemon juice
1/4 savoy cabbage (tough outer leaves removed) cored and thinly sliced
1/2 radicchio cored and thinly sliced
2 oz raw snow peas, thinly sliced
6 scallions (including 3 inches of green) sliced on the bias
1/4 red bell pepper, thinly slivered)
1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1 separated mandarin for garnish
3 Tblsp roasted, unsalted peanuts (roughly chopped) for garnish

For the Dressing:

1/4 cup rice vinegar
3 Tblspn peanut oil
2 Tblspn sesame oil
1 Tblspn smooth peanut butter
1 1/2 Tblspn honey
1 tspn Dijon mustard
1 tspn Soy sauce
1 egg yolk
salt and freshly ground pepper

DIRECTIONS

Combine the chicken, sesame oil, chili sauce, garlic, ginger and lime juice in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours, tossing once.
Prepare the dressing. Place all the dressing ingredients in a blender. Process on high speed until smooth. Refrigerate until well chilled.
Cook the chicken on an oiled, rimmed baking sheet and bake at 375 degrees for 18 – 20 minutes until the thickest parts register 165 degrees.
Cool slightly and then cut into strips. Place in a large bowl. Add the cabbage, snow peas, scallions, bell pepper and cilantro.
Toss the salad with 1/2 of the dressing or as much as desired.
Dress with the mandarin pieces and chopped peanuts.

TUESDAY

I devoured the most delicious Avocado soup in a Viennese bistro many decades ago. But all the waiter would tell me was that “if you cook the avocado, the dish will be ruined.” It took me quite a while to recreate it, but it’s a whole lot easier than you might think.

Avocado soup

AVOCADO SOUP

INGREDIENTS

4 ripe avocados.
4 cups of good vegetable stock (home-made preferably)
1/4 cup of cream
salt and pepper to taste
6 slices of white sandwich bread
2 cloves of garlic
3 tablespoons canola oil

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the croutons first. With a long, sharp bread knife, cut the bread into 1/4 inch cubes. Crush the garlic and toss into a large frying pan with the heated oil.
Fry the croutons over medium high heat by constantly stirring them. If the oil dries up too quickly, add a further 2 tablespoons.
When all the cubes are toasted and golden brown, scoop them onto a paper towel and drain.

For the Soup:
Warm the vegetable stock in a saucepan.
Season with salt and pepper.
Add the cream to the soup and simmer at low heat while whisking. Only minutes before serving, blend the avocados and whisk them into the heated soup. DO NOT COOK THE AVOCADOS! Serve immediately with the croutons.

WEDNESDAY

Like any Wienerschnitzel or Veal chop Milanese, adding a side of Lingonberry jam brings some rich sweet-and-sourness to an already luxuriously decadent meal.

Veal chop Milanese

VEAL CHOP MILANESE

INGREDIENTS

All-purpose flour, for dredging
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon milk
1 1/2 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Four 1-inch-thick veal rib chops
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 lemon sliced into wedges
Lingonberry preserves or jam for serving

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350°. Put the flour in a shallow bowl. In another shallow bowl, beat the eggs with the milk. In a third shallow bowl, toss the panko with the lemon zest.
Season the veal chops with salt and pepper, dredge them in the flour and shake off the excess. Dip the veal chops in the egg mixture and let the excess drip off. Coat the veal chops with panko, pressing to help the crumbs adhere.
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil with the vegetable oil until shimmering. Add 2 of the veal chops to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat until they are browned and crisp on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to moderate, turn the veal chops over and cook until they are browned and crisp on the other side, about 2 minutes longer.
Transfer the veal chops to a large rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining chops.

Bake the veal chops for about 15 minutes, turning them once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the meat near the bone registers 140°. Serve with Lingonberry preserves and lemon wedges on the side.

THURSDAY

This Spinach Salad is another mega-favorite of ours from Yotam Ottolenghi’s collection. What makes this dish so more-ish are the crispy, crunchy, spicy, umami pita chips and almonds.

Spinach Salad with dates and almonds

BABY SPINACH SALAD WITH DATES AND ALMONDS

INGREDIENTS

1 Tblsp white wine vinegar
1/2 medium red onion thinly sliced
100g pitted Medjool dates quartered lengthways
30g undalted butter
2 Tblsp olive oil
2 small pitas roughly torn into 1 inch pieces
75g raw almonds roughly chopped
2 tap sumac
1/2 tsp chilli flakes
150g baby spinach leaves, washed
2 Tblspn lemon juice

DIRECTIONS

Put the vinegar onion and dates in a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and mix well with your hands. Leave to marinate for 20 minutes, then drain any residual vinegar and discard.
Meanwhile, heat the butter and half the olive oil in a medium frying pan. Add the pita and almonds and cook them on a medium heat for 4 – 6 minutes, stirring all the time, until the pita is crunchy and golden brown. Remove from the heat and mix in the sumac, chilli and 1/4 tsp of salt. Set aside to cool.
When you are ready to serve, toss the spinach leaves with the pita mix in a large mixing bowl. Add the dates and red onion, remaining olive oil, lemon juice and another pinch of salt.
Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

FRIDAY

Believe it or not, Cucumber Gazpacho debuted decades before anyone had access to tomatoes. This is another cobbled together restaurant remake which miraculously takes the edge off of a sweltering summers day.

Cucumber Gazpacho

CUCUMBER GAZPACHO

INGREDIENTS

4 cucumbers—peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
2/3 cup seedless green grapes
1 small garlic clove
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 – 4 Tblspn distilled white vinegar (to taste)
1 cup of unsweetened almond milk
Salt to taste
1/2 cup roasted Marcona almonds
Chili oil for serving

DIRECTIONS

In a blender, combine the cucumbers, grapes, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and almond milk; puree until smooth. Season with salt.
Strain through a fine sieve to remove any solids. Chill for at least 2 hours.
Garnish with a few droplets of chili oil and toss in a few Marcona almonds. Serves 6.

SATURDAY

My Sesame crusted Pork tenderloin is probably one of the oldest “keeper” recipes in our collection. I have upgraded several times the sauce over the years, but I have never been able to substitute the (salt-free) Mrs. Dash’s spices. Don’t mess with it. Just trust me on this one. It works.

Sesame-crusted Pork tenderloin with Port wine reduction sauce

SESAME-CRUSTED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH PORT WINE REDUCTION

INGREDIENTS

For the tenderloin:

1 pork tenderloin
1/2 cup honey
1 cup low sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoon Mrs. Dash herb seasoning
6 tablespoons sesame seeds

For the Sauce:

2 Tblsp shallots, chopped fine
2 tblsp olive oil
1 cup port wine
1 cup demi-glace or low-sodium beef broth
2 tsp corn starch
1 tsp cold water
Fresh ground pepper

DIRECTIONS

Using your hands, spread pork loin with honey. Mix soy sauce with Mrs. Dash garlic and herbs seasoning and place in a zip lock bag, add pork loin and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours or up to 8 hours, turning from time to time.
Preheat barbecue or oven to 400 degrees and place a cast iron skillet in the oven. Place sesame seeds on waxed paper and roll tenderloin in sesame seeds until completely covered. Do not discard the marinade.
Briefly sear all sides of the loin over direct heat on the barbecue and then move to indirect heat. Alternately, sear in the now hot cast-iron skillet on the stove-top and then return the skillet to the oven.
Cook for approx. 25 – 30 minutes (depending on size of loin) until internal temperature reaches 145 degrees. Allow the loin to rest under tin foil for 10 minutes.
In a small saucepan heat the oil and sauté the shallots until soft. Add the residual tenderloin marinade and bring to a boil. Reduce by half and add 1 cup Port wine and reduce by half. Add 1 cup beef stock and reduce by half. Season with fresh ground pepper to taste. Continue to cook on medium-low for 10 minutes. Add Corn Starch and water slurry to thicken – if necessary.
Carve the loin into medallions and serve with the sauce.

BONUS RECIPE:

Grilled Peaches

GRILLED PEACHES

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons white sugar
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black peppercorns
6 large fresh peaches with peel, halved and pitted
Vanilla ice cream

DIRECTIONS

In a saucepan over medium heat, stir together the white sugar, balsamic vinegar, and pepper. Simmer until liquid has reduced by one half. It should become slightly thicker. Remove from heat, and set aside.
(If the peach halves are still hard, you can microwave them for 1 – 2 minutes until they soften in the center. Let them cool completely before continuing.)
Preheat grill on medium-high heat, (or preheat a ridged cast-iron griddle pan until searing hot.)
Lightly oil the grill grate. Place peaches on the prepared grill (or griddle pan), cut side down. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until the flesh is caramelized and nice dark lines are burned in. Turn peaches over. Brush the top sides with the balsamic glaze, and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the peaches to individual serving dishes, and drizzle with remaining glaze. Sprinkle with vanilla ice cream.

Stay safe, stay sane and support our re-emerging culinary industry.

My favorite quarantine recipes Part X

June 14, 2020 / Roger Hyde / 1 Comment

Corn and Gorgonzola salad

If you’re just joining us now, let me catch you up on what’s been happening for the past 10 weeks. Being a bit of a foodie in a foodie city where all 18,000 food establishments are closed, I decided to embark on a personal challenge: to keep up my beloved culinary variety by cooking a different dish every day until the lock-down ends. And so, as I wring out my recipe books with new, used, cherished, nostalgic and beloved meals, I hope you join me as I eat “out” every night of the week.