Chi Spacca – Los Angeles review

Chi Spacca - The newest venture from the Mozza group is an uncompromising carnivore’s delight. Wedged between Mozza and Mozza2Go on what is fast becoming Hancock Park’s hungriest block, Nancy Silverton and her team have given birth to Chi Spacca – a holy shrine to flesh. The rust colored, black shelved room boasts a demonstration-style kitchen that harkens to the space’s former life as an experimental cooking lab and slaughtery. Chef de Cuisine Matt Colby’s comprehensive knowledge of protein and all its complexities, yields a daring menu that shows off his proudest contributions to the LA food scene.

Chi Spacca - Affettati Misti

Affettati Misti

Sectioned into unrelated chapters rather than sequential courses, Colby offers diners (of all appetites) a rather arbitrary range of small plates including ricotta stuffed Squash Blossoms, honeycomb and hazelnut adorned Pecorino, a selection of Pane Bianco (Bruschettas) and house made Pickles.

Chi Spacca - Focaccia Di Recco

Focaccia Di Recco

There’s no mistaking his Focaccia Di Recco for any conventional Focaccia you’ve ever tasted. This one is a crusty, fluff-less flatbread, smothered in a melted salty-sweet Stracchino cheese and dribbled with olive oil.Chi Spacca - Drying cabinetHis on-site salumeria houses more than a ton of meat (quite literally), aging and curing for up to 2 years before being served on planks as Affettati Misti, a heavenly selection of salami’s, lardo wrapped grissini sticks, a coarse butchers paté and the most delicious fritters made from pigs trotters and chunks of smoky pork.

Salads and sides include a wondrous roasted Cauliflower smothered in a rich Bagna Cauda (anchovy, garlic, lemon) and grilled Broccoli in a lemon vinaigrette.

Chi Spacca - Bistecca Fiorentina

Bistecca Fiorentina

The larger plates grow in portion and price from the delicate bacon wrapped veal Sweetbreads to a honkin’ 50oz Bone-in New York Steak. Traffic-stopping favorites are the Milk-Roasted Pork Loin and the Bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine steak), which requires 45 minutes to roast and arrives with the bone upright, (obviously proclaiming man’s victorious domination over the cow) and a domino row of salt charred (yet rare) medallions of melt-in-your-mouth, succulent, tender, dry-aged beef in a pool of olive oil. No sauce, no spice, no need. (Just the faintly muted sound of a grown man crying!)


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